Riesling Battle Royale

I recently attended my first ever Riesling Battle Royale! New York Riesling versus some of the greatest Riesling producers from around the world and I must admit…. I was rather impressed with what the East Coast had to offer.

I really shouldn’t have been so surprised. The Finger Lakes region in upstate New York has been growing vines since the 1820s and really picked up momentum in the 1960s thanks to the work of winemaker and viticulturalist – Dr Konstantin Frank. His work put this region on the wine world map and his findings showed that it was definitely the Riesling grape which had the most potential.

What makes the Finger Lakes so special for Riesling?
Well, the clue is in the name. The Lakes themselves are impressively deep. Lake Seneca is over 200m!! These profound lakes help moderate the climate; ensuring cool lake breezes during the summer and by mitigating the extreme cold during the winter. Combine this ambient climate with the lakes’ diverse glacier deposited soils and you have some pretty exciting terrain to grow Riesling which thrives in cool climates.

Riesling is one of the most transparent terroir translators in the glass. The mosaic of soils in the Finger Lakes was powerfully conveyed when one of the local winemakers compared the vineyards to the East of the Lakes versus the vineyards to the West, as one would compare the famous German Riesling regions of Pfalz versus the Mosel. The different expressions of ‘minerality’, or however you would like to describe that extra essence in the glass, can therefore take on all kinds of nuances – from the chalky, granitic, stony or saline.

The flip side of all this potential means that it is a bit of the wild west. There are no grand crus or specific regulations monitoring which sites are known for which characteristics which can make it confusing for drinkers. At this stage I would argue that it mainly comes down to the stylistic and philosophical choices of the winemaker. That in itself is fine, but for the uninitiated that just means trying as many different ones as possible and working out what you like… which is not the worst challenge in the world!

One coherent message however which all the Finger Lake winemakers wanted to emphasise was the DRYNESS of their Riesling. This for them is what represents the region most. They do not want their Riesling region being viewed in the same light as Washington States Riesling – a state where a great deal of the most commercial Rieslings are off dry.

Prior to this tasting I only really knew the Rieslings made by Dr Konstantin Frank – the aforementioned viticulturalist. I adored his range of Riesling – from the bubbly, the ultra dry to the most thrilling dessert wine. The whole range was fantastic and therefore it did not surprise me that Oscar Bynke, co owner of Hermann J Wiemer vineyard made over 15 different Rieslings. In the Finger Lakes there really are so many different exciting variables to play with for a Riesling lover. The range of these styles was palpably conveyed in the Battle of the Rieslings.

The ‘Battle’ in all honesty was not really fair. For one, I am sure the Riesling from Germany would have shown better had it not been so reduced in the little tasting bottle. The Rieslings were also all from different vintages, soils and countries. Therefore, it was more like an impressive exhibition of the Riesling grape in all its guises as opposed to a grapple of the grapes.

My two favourite of the New York state wines both stood out for the combination of perfume and texture. Again, both of these qualities are part due to the climate and part due to the winemaking decisions.

For those who like their Riesling with an exotic flair try:
Hermann J Wiemer Vineyard – HJW Bio Riesling 2019
£32.50 available via Wanderlust Wines

This is a stunning and intoxicating Riesling. Cloudy apple pulp combines with lychee exoticism and star anise spice. The velvety texture is sensational! The Wiemar Vineyard is one of the most important vineyards in the Finger Lakes and is now a biodynamic initiative… Another factor to consider when assessing this Riesling’s deliciousness!!

For those who like their Riesling with a saline tang:
Red Newt Cellars – The Knoll 2016
£30.50 available via The Wine Treasury

I just could not get over the combination of concentrated quince and baked apple pear fruit pepped up with a saline sizzle on the finish. You really go on a journey with this aged Riesling. From the warm spicy perfume, rounded stone fruit and then the coquettish salty tang which lasts for an impressive amount of seconds. Super elegant wine and fantastic price.

I hope this tiny sample has at least put this very exciting region on your wine radar. I for one am delighted to see more examples in the UK and can’t wait to try and compare more.